Why British Columbians love water buffalo cheese so much
Water buffalo may not produce the majority of dairy consumed in British Columbia, but their milk makes some very fine cheese.
Jennifer and Russell Dyson have been raising water buffalo on Coleman Meadows Farm in Port Alberni, B.C., since 2010. “Water buffalo milk is high in fat and low in cholesterol. It’s just a tremendous milk for cheese,” says Jennifer, co-owner of the farm.
Coleman Meadows milk travels north to Courtenay, B.C., where Natural Pastures Cheese Company crafts it into authentic Mozzarella di Bufala and other specialty cheeses.
This local connection illustrates something profound: Agriculture is a cycle—plants nourish animals, animals nourish people, and people nourish the community—each relying on the other.
Water buffalo: a newcomer to Canadian dairy, with deep global roots
While water buffalo have supported dairy producers across Asia and Europe for centuries, these magnificent animals only arrived in Canada in 2000. Globally, though, their milk remains the number one dairy source for millions.
On Vancouver Island, the Dysons found that mild seasons and long forage-growing periods provide ideal conditions. The herd thrives on grass and silage (pickled forage) grown entirely in the Alberni Valley—a local diet that shapes the quality of the milk and flavour of the cheese.
“It can be used for cheese, yogurt, gelato, frozen yogurt—so many things,” Jennifer says, noting how well water buffalo milk works for artisanal products.
Visitors to Coleman Meadows notice how gentle the buffalo are—leaning in for scratches, nudging pockets for treats, or relaxing when brushed. Russell recalls Ginger, a buffalo who would flop onto the ground in bliss while being brushed.
These endearing moments reflect the Dyson’s philosophy: Farming with care for land, animals, and people. “It’s a labour of love,” Jennifer shares. “Everything here is for the long-term future, whoever comes after us.”
From milk to mozzarella: Natural Pastures and the art of cheesemaking
When the Dysons decided to raise water buffalo, the presence of a skilled local cheesemaker made all the difference. Natural Pastures’ head cheesemaker, Paul Sutter, brings over 35 years of experience, much rooted in Switzerland’s cheesemaking traditions.
Paul describes cheesemaking as an interplay between raw material, place, and technique. “You take the milk you have here, add culture, and create a cheese that works in this facility,” he explains. “You really have to use the science and the knowledge to make a perfect cheese.”
When making cheese from water buffalo milk, this science becomes an art. Vancouver Island’s extraordinary environment affects the flavour of the milk in subtle, distinctive ways.
“It’s unique here because we have the ocean and the mountain together,” Paul says. “The grass the cows and buffalo eat makes the milk different than in other areas.” He compares the resulting terroir to the qualities found in certain French regions, where local flora shapes the complexity of cheeses.
Artisanal skill meets modern precision
Though Natural Pastures has invested in new modern equipment, including a state-of-the-art cheese press imported from Switzerland, Paul emphasizes that the heart of their work remains artisanal.
“Artisanal doesn’t mean a fancy word,” he explains. “It means the old-fashioned way—hands-on cheesemaking.”
Technology supports consistency, but knowledge is in the human touch. Cheesemakers at Natural Pastures still feel the curd between their fingers, gauging firmness, adjusting heat, or extending stirring times based on intuition honed over decades. There’s even a Swiss term for the tactile test Paul relies on: “the grief”.
This marriage of precision, experience, and instinct allows Natural Pastures to produce a wide variety of cheeses, from soft-ripened wheels to semi-hard and smoked specialties. In total, they make more than 20 varieties including five from water buffalo milk: Buffeta, Mozzarella di Bufala, Buffalo Bocconcini, Buffalo Brie, and Buffalo Paneer.
The Farm Shop: Where Food Meets Community
Back in Port Alberni, each Saturday brings a steady stream of locals and visitors to the Coleman Meadows Farm shop—a cozy, bare-bones storefront filled with a surprising amount of products.
People come for the Natural Pastures cheeses, the yogurt, the frozen desserts, and other goods sourced from neighbouring farms. But they also come for the connection; to talk, ask questions, and share recipes and stories.
“It’s about reciprocity,” Jennifer explains. “Food is about community. It’s about helping each other.”
It’s a reminder that local food systems are social systems built from relationships, not just transactions.
Strengthening local food for the next generation
The Dysons’ commitment to farming is also about ensuring the future of food on Vancouver Island. Their son and daughter-in-law run a small cow dairy on the same property, supported in part by a provincial new-entrant program for young farmers.
“There’s unlimited potential,” Jennifer shares, “but the challenge is access to land. We want to make sure the next generation has a foothold.”
Russell adds that consumers play a vital role: choosing local products, supporting small farms, and asking retailers to carry B.C. goods. These choices help sustain the cycle—ensuring that farms continue to exist, that milk continues to be produced, and that artisanal cheesemakers like Natural Pastures can continue their craft.
Where to Find Natural Pastures Water Buffalo Cheese
You can find Natural Pastures Cheese at Coleman Meadows Farm Shop (Saturdays), and both small and major retailers across the province—and across the country. Can’t find it? Ask your local grocer to carry it. Natural Pastures water buffalo mozzarella is readily available at Buy BC retail partners including:
Other retailers include:
- Independent Grocer (Lower Mainland, Vancouver Island, Interior)
- Whole Foods
Find out what’s in season and read more Buy BC stories at buybc.gov.bc.ca.